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Millions of them, for free. Little hand jamming, little layback, all the moves to keep us honest.
I'm not sure anyone has a negative opinion of this climb. A Summerville Classic, "Under the Milky Way" is just one of the those stupid aesthetic lines that begs to be climbed.
In Ben Carlson's recap of climbing 30 5.10 pitches in a day in the Gunks, he describes Doubleissima as "One of the best climbs in the universe". I'm inclined to agree, what a fantastic pitch of climbing.
If you've climbed it before, you'll probably get it. If like me you never have, well it helps to know the name before getting on. A Red Rocks classic that challenges a Gunks rat such as myself.
If it isn't obvious, I had never climbed a chimney before so why not jump on a string of 5.9's. Luckily a group passed us just before beginning the pitch and I had a chance to grab some beta, such as which side to keep your back to. It wasn't obvious to myself and later I may have messed this up.
This reminded me a lot of 5.9's in the Gunks.. A super fun climb though it wasn't the crack climbing I was expecting. Balancey and technical, it seemed to lack real finger & toe jams. That or I'm actually learning how to do this.
I really enjoyed this pitch. Yes, it was challenging. Yes, the beginning was a bit clumsy but by the time I was half way through the pitch, this style really began to make sense to me. A lot of work but a whole lot of fun.
If you really want to throw yourself in the deep end with crack climbing (without going to the Creek), this is the climb to do it on.
Such a great climb! I'm not sure I really ever came across a distinct crux. Just solid climbing all the way to the end (maybe with the exception of couple lose holds and chalked x's).
6 out of 3 stars? Oh, I agree. Get on it, it's hard & challenging, fun climbing and so worth it.